I have recently been thinking about printing some miniatures and other D&D parts. However I am currently limited by my equipment, also known as my trusty CR-20 Pro. I know a resin printer is ideal for miniatures but getting one is not possible for me at the moment. So it is back to the CR-20 Pro I go for the time being even though I know the quality would not be as great as resin. The CR-20 Pro is completely stock at the moment.
I am looking for some advice on slicer settings and upgrades that might give me a chance at printing miniatures. I currently work with Cura and PrusaSlicer but any advice would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks in advance!
I’ve found that smaller nozzles don’t give significantly improved quality. Layer height 100% improves things. I can recommend doing a 0.16mm height with a 0.4mm nozzle. However select your mini’s well. Avoid ones with long thing bits, they tend to not work well (the printer stays too long in the area and it goes a bit meh). Here’s a comparison between a 0.4mm nozzle and 0.16mm layer heights and a 0.2mm nozzle and 0.8mm layer heights. In all these images left left it the 0.4mm and the right is 0.2mm.
This model is also a supportless model, they will give you the nicest results, super thing details and support removal can lead to many many tears.
For the time saving, the 0.4mm is the winner, not a huge quality difference and its MASSIVELY faster
That’s really cool. Thanks for the information. Its interesting that upgrading the nozzle hasn’t significantly improved quality. Did you have to scale up that model or is that the size it was designed?
Choosing suitable models didn’t really cross my mind but its actually a very good point. Will definitely keep that in mind along with the suggestion of supportless models. I can imagine the frustration of finally getting a successful mini print only to have parts break off due to supports.
Thats the size it was designed. If I remember correctly this was downloaded from thingiverse.
I have tried models from places like Loot Studios and they do work, but its going to take a LOT more fiddling to get it right as they’re designed for resin printers.